Here in the Pacific Northwest, we have hot summers, cold winters, and a lot of snow, sleet, and rain in between. Any material you use in an outside space will be exposed to the elements and temperature changes; if your product is not suited for the weather or if it's installed improperly, your installation will fail. We've seen broken tiles, stained stone, peeling grout, and excessive water damage result from bad installation practices.
Fortunately, we're here to help you choose the right materials and utilize the proper techniques to create a durable outdoor installation.
Set up a free in-store design consultation so we can help you choose the perfect exterior-grade materials. Call 253-872-0449 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
Many installation materials such as grout, caulk, and thinset have a temperature range in which they can be installed. If its too cold or too hot, the products won't cure properly. For example, Schluter All Set, our recommended thinset for Schluter Ditra and Kerdi, can't be installed on surfaces colder than 40° F or warmer than 90° F. In instances of extreme summer heat or chilly winter nights, you will have to tent and/or heat the area during the installation period.
When a very porous tile is left outside in the rain, it will absorb the moisture, which will expand upon freezing, potentially causing the tile to crack.
The tile industry standard recommendation is no more than 5% porosity; under 3% is ideal. Certain natural stone and ceramic tiles are not suitable for outside installations due to their porosity. Meanwhile, there are numerous porcelain product lines specifically approved for exterior use.
Ask us about specific products you are interested in and we'll tell you how well it will hold up in your installation.
It's basic physics: matter expands when warm, and shrinks when cold. This is true of tile and stone.
Inside of a house, the temperature is fairly consistent, and as such contraction and expansion aren't major concerns for most tile installations. Outside, however, where your tile can experience temperatures from over 100º F to below freezing, you need wide enough grout joints with flexible enough grout to give your tiles some wiggle room. We recommend at least 1/8" grout joints and higher-quality colorfast cement-based grout with a grout additive to protect it from stains.
To help protect your tile from future damage, you'll need to include expansion joints into your installation. An expansion joint is needed at least every 10 linear feet, and an expansion joint at least 1/4" wide is needed around the perimeter of the installation if you're meeting to a solid surface or a wall.
We recommend using the flexible 100% silicone color-matched caulking designed to accompany your grout in the expansion joints, or an engineered expansion joint profile such as Schluter Dilex.
If you are tiling over a concrete slab, generally speaking you'll want to align the expansion joints between your tiles with the expansion joints in your concrete slab. Both sets of expansion joints are necessary to prevent damage to your installation.
Just like your roof, you want tiled patios and decks to have enough slope to carry water off of and away from your house. The recommended slope is 1/4" of height difference for each linear foot.
We recommend one of Schluter's drainage and gutter systems for patios, balconies, or decks that are above an open area or living space. They are designed to be installed with tiles for a clean look.
If your tile is going over some sort of wood product (on a deck or outside countertop, for example), or if there's potential for water to leak or drain into your house, you need to waterproof your installation.
With a concrete substrate, there is a chance that moisture can creep up through the concrete and create problems in your tile installation. Waterproofing is often recommended, but not always necessary.
There is a common misconception that an impervious tile and non-porous or sealed grout will act as a waterproof barrier when used together; but porcelain and grout are not intended to be waterproofing materials, and should never be relied upon as a moisture barrier.
We carry several different waterproofing products, but we recommend Schluter Ditra as a waterproofing underlayment that doubles as an anti-fracture membrane. Ditra will help prevent cracking tiles and act as a vapor barrier, stabilizing your installation.
Have a look at this example of a contractor fixing an improperly installed tile patio with proper slope, drainage, and Ditra as an underlayment and waterproofer.
If your concrete is relatively new (under 15 years old), you will need an anti-fracture membrane (such as Schluter Ditra) between your concrete and your tile. There is a chance that the concrete can settle and crack, the movement of which will transfer to your tiles and cause them to crack.
If your concrete is over 15 years old, it has had time to settle and an anti-fracture membrane is optional.
Water can get through concrete. If you have a concrete slab close to your house, there is a chance that moisture will get into the structure of your home by saturating the concrete and cause structural damage.
Waterproofing your concrete before tiling will prevent moisture damage and make for a better installation. Some waterproofing methods (including Schluter Ditra) can double as an anti-fracture membrane for added stability.
Porcelain is one of the strongest, most dense tile products available today. Several porcelain lines are designed specifically for Pacific Northwest weather: they are thick, almost completely pore-free, and extremely frost-resistant. These tiles are available in a wide variety of colors, shapes, sizes, and textures, and are ideal for outside use.
Solid surface granite countertops and low-porosity tiles work well in outside spaces.
Quartz countertops, despite their strength and durability, are not recommended for outside installation; the resins in quartz can yellow in sunlight and the manufacturer will often NOT warranty an outside installation.
Some stone tiles, including many slate colors, have iron and other minerals that will bleed when wet. In western Washington, this could mean rusty, stained stone 9 months out of the year!
Check with your stone supplier to find out if your desired stone is suitable for an outside space.
We do NOT recommend setting tiles without grout (difficult to clean, potential damage to the thinset or underlayment, unfinished look) or without space in between the tiles (potential for tiles to expand, buckle, and separate from their thinset).
We recommend at least an 1/8" grout joint to allow for contraction and expansion of your tile.
Use a higher quality colorfast cement-based grout with an additive to seal it from the inside out. Grout brands include CBP Prism, Bostik Hydroment, Mapei Ultracolor FA, and others. Instead of water, mix the powder with an additive such as Miracle Grout Shield.
We don't recommend pre-mixed and epoxy grouts for exposed areas due to potential UV discoloration and frost damage.
Tent your installation after grouting to protect it from rain and allow airflow; the grout needs 3 days to fully cure before it can be exposed to rain or morning dew.
You'll also need 100% silicone caulking for your expansion joints. The caulking has more flex than the grout, but is designed to match your grout's color. However, over time caulk will need to be replaced.
You can also use an engineered expansion joint such as one of the Schluter Dilex products instead of caulk, but it will need to be installed at the same time as your tile.
Set up a free in-store design consultation so we can help you choose the perfect exterior-grade materials. Call 253-872-0449 or email email@example.com to schedule an appointment.
We highly recommend this article by David M. Gobis, Ceramic Tile Consultant.
We recommend Houzz.com for images of tiled patios and an abundance of great design ideas. Click through the photos below to see examples! If you see something you like, you can email us the picture and we'll help you find it.
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